AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Short-roping is best utilized in exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain where a slip could be fatal, but pitched climbing would be too slow.

It is primarily a risk management tool balancing security and efficiency, requiring the rope to be kept snug to prevent dynamic falls.

Equalized, Angles (appropriate), Redundant, No Extension, Solid, and Timely.

While similar to SERENE, EARNEST emphasizes the "Timely" aspect, which is a critical efficiency metric for guides.

A standard Z-drag provides a 3:1 theoretical mechanical advantage.

Friction at the carabiners and rock edges reduces the actual mechanical advantage significantly, often requiring the addition of a progress capture pulley.

Redirect a sling through the release hole and use a carabiner as a handle or a munter hitch on the anchor to gradually release tension.

Always back up the brake strand (e.g., with a friction hitch or a backup belayer) before releasing a loaded device.

It is a transition where the follower arrives at the belay, is secured, and then the guide immediately leads the next pitch without swapping ends of the rope.

Also known as "guiding blocks," this is the most common and efficient method when guiding one or two clients.

The guide must first secure themselves, assess the situation, and "escape the belay" if actively belaying.

Hands-free security is paramount before initiating any mechanical rescue system or leaving the stance.

The guide should build a hauling system (like a 3:1 or 6:1) to raise them, or execute a tandem rappel if lowering them to the ground is a safe option.

Raising a client requires complex hauling; guides proactively try to avoid situations where clients can get stranded in space.

Both twin ropes must be clipped through every piece of protection together, whereas half ropes can be clipped individually to alternate pieces to reduce rope drag.

Guides often use half ropes on wandering pitches to keep the rope lines running straight.

The distance is typically 1.5 to 3 meters (5 to 10 feet), depending on the terrain and the client's security.

The guide must maintain the "V-angle" of the rope and keep it taut to immediately arrest a slip before it becomes a fall.

Tie the middle client in with a butterfly knot (or tied-off figure eight) and the end client with a standard figure eight follow-through, spacing them 3 to 5 meters apart.

This parallel tie-in allows both clients to climb simultaneously on the same rope end, maximizing efficiency on easier terrain.

The Munter hitch allows a guide to belay or lower a client using only a locking carabiner, serving as a critical backup if a belay device is dropped.

It works for both ascending and descending loads but twists the rope significantly.

Extending the rappel allows the guide to easily attach a friction hitch backup below the device and creates space to manage a client's tether.

It also keeps the rappel device away from loose clothing, hair, and the guide's harness clutter.

The guide's pace is a slow, steady, and sustainable rhythm designed to conserve the client's energy and prevent heavy sweating.

It emphasizes continuous movement with fewer stops rather than fast bursts followed by long rests.

The guide should flip, whip, and roll the ropes to change the friction angle before attempting to ascend or build a hauling system.

Plucking the rope under tension like a guitar string can also send a wave up the line to free a minor snag.

A pre-equalized anchor fixes the focal point for a specific direction of pull, while a self-equalizing anchor adjusts to shifts in the load's direction.

A sliding X should always include limiting knots to reduce shock-loading extension in case one piece fails.

It allows the guide to easily transition between belaying, short-fixing, and hauling while providing hands-free security during a rescue.

Despite the assisted braking, guides must always maintain a hand on the brake strand.

The guide can use a plaquette device in guide mode directly on the anchor, managing both independent strands simultaneously.

Lowering from above is generally faster and safer than tandem rappelling, provided the ropes reach the next anchor.

Margin is the buffer of safety, time, and equipment a guide maintains to handle unexpected events without causing an accident or epic.

Guides intentionally increase margin by climbing well below their physical limit and carrying appropriate rescue gear.

It is a technique where the guide uses the friction of the rope routed around natural features, like boulders or trees, to secure the client without building a formal anchor.

Highly efficient for moving fast in 3rd and 4th class terrain, but requires excellent rope management.

The guide must carry a WAG bag (waste alleviation and gelling bag) to pack out all solid human waste.

Planning ahead and ensuring clients use facilities before the climb is the best preventative measure.