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Evaluates the candidate's understanding of the SPI scope of practice, environmental stewardship, and proactive hazard mitigation.
Covers the proper selection, use, and maintenance of climbing equipment, as well as proficiency in essential knots and hitches.
Focuses on the construction, evaluation, and extension of secure top rope anchors using both natural and artificial components.
Assesses the ability to safely and efficiently manage a climbing site from the bottom, including belaying and ground organization.
Tests skills required to manage clients from the top of the cliff, including edge transitions and belaying from above.
Evaluates the candidate's ability to teach climbing movement, brief clients, and manage group dynamics effectively.
Covers emergency protocols and technical rescues required to assist a climber in distress in a single-pitch setting.
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Get All FlashcardsWhat does the acronym ERNEST stand for in anchor building?
Click to flipEqualized, Redundant, No Extension, Solid, Timely.
Also known by the acronym SERENE (Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No Extension).
What is the primary difference between a bottom-managed and top-managed single pitch site?
Click to flipIn a bottom-managed site, the belayer is positioned on the ground; in a top-managed site, the belayer is positioned at the top of the cliff.
Top-managed sites require careful edge protection and tethering for the instructor.
What is the AMGA SPI Scope of Practice regarding approach terrain?
Click to flipSPIs can operate on approaches up to Class 3 terrain that do not require short roping or pitched climbing.
Class 4 or 5 terrain approaches are outside the SPI scope.
What is the first required step when performing a belay escape?
Click to flipTie off the belay device with a mule hitch and an overhand backup.
This secures the climber hands-free so you can safely build the escape system.
How does a static rope differ from a dynamic rope in single pitch guiding?
Click to flipStatic ropes are used for building anchors and rigging, while dynamic ropes are used for climbing and belaying to absorb fall impact.
Never use a static rope to belay a lead climber.
What is the recommended friction hitch for backing up a rappel?
Click to flipAn Autoblock hitch, usually placed below the rappel device and attached to the leg loop or an extended belay loop.
The autoblock releases easily under load compared to a Prusik hitch.
What is the 'V-angle' rule when building equalized anchors?
Click to flipThe angle between the anchor legs should be 60 degrees or less to minimize the force multiplied on each individual piece.
At 120 degrees, each piece holds 100% of the load, defeating the purpose of load distribution.
What does the acronym PBUS stand for in belay technique?
Click to flipPull, Brake, Under, Slide.
This is the AMGA standard technique for top-rope belaying.
When should an SPI utilize a ground anchor for a belayer?
Click to flipWhen the belayer is significantly lighter than the climber or when there is a risk of the belayer being pulled into hazards.
Ground anchors should be built to resist both upward and forward pull.
How do you safely lower a climber when belaying from the top in 'Guide Mode' (plaquette device)?
Click to flipRedirect the brake strand through a high friction point, back it up with a friction hitch, and carefully use the release hole to lower via a lever.
Load-releasing a plaquette device without a backup is highly dangerous and can lead to a dropped climber.
What is the primary advantage of using a Clove Hitch to secure yourself to an anchor?
Click to flipIt is easily adjustable without untying, allowing you to quickly change the length of your tether.
It requires a locking carabiner and should be visually inspected after adjusting.
What is the 'Counter Balance' rescue technique used for?
Click to flipIt is used by a top-belayer to lower themselves down to a stuck or injured climber to assist them, using the climber's weight as a counterbalance.
Essential for intervening when a climber cannot complete a route and is out of reach.
What is the minimum mechanical advantage system typically taught for a simple SPI haul?
Click to flipA 3:1 hauling system, often referred to as a Z-drag.
Used for assisting a climber through a crux or rescuing an incapacitated climber.
What is the definition of a 'Single Pitch' climb according to the AMGA?
Click to flipA climb where the climber is lowered to the ground or walks off from the top of the first pitch, without needing intermediate belay stations.
The rope length must be sufficient to return to the ground safely.
What is the primary purpose of a Munter Hitch?
Click to flipIt provides friction for belaying or rappelling using only a locking carabiner and the rope.
It is an essential backup skill if a belay or rappel device is dropped.
What pre-climb checks should an SPI perform before every single climb?
Click to flipCheck the climber's harness buckles, tie-in knot, belayer's harness, belay device setup, and locking carabiners.
Often remembered by ABCDE (Anchors, Buckles, Carabiners, Devices, Everything else).
In what scenario would you use a 'Catastrophe Knot'?
Click to flipWhen performing a belay escape or complex rescue, it is tied in the brake strand as a fail-safe backup before manipulating the system.
Usually a figure-eight or overhand on a bight clipped to the harness.
What is the primary Leave No Trace (LNT) consideration regarding anchor trees?
Click to flipAvoid wrapping rope or thin cord directly around the bark of trees to prevent girdling; use wide webbing or tree protectors instead.
This protects the fragile cambium layer of the tree.
Compare a closed-ended (pre-rigged) rappel to an open-ended rappel.
Click to flipA closed-ended rappel has knots at the ends of the ropes to prevent rappelling off the ends, whereas an open-ended rappel lacks these knots.
AMGA heavily emphasizes 'closing the system' (tying stopper knots) for safety.
What constitutes a 'directional' in top-rope climbing?
Click to flipA piece of protection placed between the belayer and the anchor to keep the rope in a specific line, preventing dangerous swings.
Crucial for traversing routes or protecting climbers from pendulum falls.
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